South Pacific, Roaring 40s (not roaring right now) 13 April 2011 2:30AM Tahiti Time 44S50 165W09

It’s a little drizzly out so I was just sitting in the companionway facing forward well under the dodger, in the Kiwi driver’s seat of this boat, when some bright headlights flashed from behind casting long shadows on the inside of our dodger ceiling. Instinctively, I looked up where the rearview mirror should have been, seeing nothing, I sent a quick glance to where my sideview mirror should have been still nothing, so I turned around. There, barrelling down on me, was the moon coming out from behind the clouds, “watch those brights, your ruining my night vision!”

He ignored me.

I’d just been wondering what the chances were of seeing anything in this section of ocean. We’re in the roaring forties, so I know there must be fishing boats somewhere out here. But it is so big. 2000 nautical miles to go, to the little spec that is Rapa (our next island not to be confused with Rapanui/Easter Island, although we may get to Rapa for Easter). If we stayed this easterly course, and did not head north for the Australes, then the next land we’d hit would be Chile in 4000 NMi. NZ is about 800 NMi behind us. There are 1800 NMi to Antarctica, and I just crashed my chart plotter, trying to zoom out to see what major land mass is due north of us right, now assuming we’d miss any islands between here and there. So Antarctica is closer than Rapa…I think we’ll save that for another season. We’d need thicker woollies than we have now, and already as Leo pointed out, we’re at risk of compression fractures and suffocation with all these layers. So the population density in our neighborhood is pretty low right now. No boats yet (Yes I did just check anyway, still do every 15 minutes). The moon isn’t tailing me anymore. It’s black out when the clouds cover him up, black and wet.

And yes another relatively uneventful day, if you don’t count a brief moment of excitement when a rogue wave slapped the side of our hull dumping hundreds of gallons of water on our heads, causing Logan, in full foulies, to laugh gleefully, and me to cringe at the cold water dripping down my raised arm (the one that was holding onto the dodger). The autopilot in all the excitement blew a fuse that we didn’t know it had on the rudder motor. That was a first. It is a new autopilot, so always new things to learn. Luckily we bought it so we’d have a backup. But as I hand steered while Frank looked into the problem, I couldn’t help thinking of the afternoon it took him, at dock, to swap the old autopilot out for this one, the thought of swapping the old one back in, at sea, gave me pause…as did the notion of hand steering for the next 10 days. But Mr. Fix-it bypassed the fuse for now, not an ideal solution but, probably what MacGuyver would have done. For an item as expensive as an autopilot, you’d think it would be easy to toss in a few extra fuses in the box, or at least use a standard fuse. So now we know, stock up on those fuses, when next we reach a port that carries such items (2 months?); and the new autopilot does not like being knocked too far off course, and works too hard to get us back on course. I’ll have to have words with him, we do not require any overachievers onboard, this is an easygoing, do everything slow, go with the flow ship. If he gets off course now and then, it’s OK, we’ll take over for a bit, give him a break, nothing to blow a fuse over.

Good wind and sun this morning, not so much of either now. Thanks for sticking with me and keeping me awake on my dog watch.

xoxomo

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New Zealand Economic Zone 11 April 2011 43S56 168W30

Well looks like I goofed our position again yesterday, and i’m finding heaps o’typos in my messages. i’m blaming it on this new flexi-keyboard. It’s supposed to be waterproof…unlike the last one. But I have to whale on these keys to get a letter to appear on the screen.

Today’s milestone is that we officially left New Zealand. We’re back in international waters now (a.k.a. no-man’s land). Even our albatross friends are fewer and farther between, although that may be because our freezer is full and we have not been fishing today – yes it’s true, we’ve confirmed the facts, there is a limit on how many fresh albacore fish tacos you can eat in 24 hours.

Fine sailing today, with lighter winds predicted for tomorrow, then some windier weather expected this weekend. We’re attempting to ride the backs of the lows, the fronts of the highs, and to glide through the troughs of the weather terrain charts. It’s kind of like skiing the moguls on a much larger and slower scale – yea, I wish we could just plant a pole on top of that next high and glide around it, with a quick jump and weight shift past the next low. Similar to bumps, it’s the zone in between – the icy face of the mogul – where you get too much speed. Must be this chill Antarctic wind and the fact that longjohns are a permanent part of my wardrobe, that has me thinking skiing analogies. If all else fails we’ll hunker down and toss out a sea anchor and wait for any nastier weather to pass – just a quick stop at the hut for some spiced cider.

Yes, basically not much to report today.

xoxomo

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New Zealand Economic Zone 11 April 2011 43S50 173W16

We’re still in New Zealand waters. 2400 miles to go, seems like too many right now. I’m tired. It’s that first-couple-of-days-of-passage syndrome. It takes awhile to get back into the swing, back in the roll, back into the sway. Good wind, good speed, and we’re going the right way today. An unbelievable quantity of seabirds follow us – even more since we caught two albacore. Our new best friends are sure we’ll cough up some more fish guts any second. Silver Lining may look like she should be able to consume more than two lousy tuna, but our fridge is not that big, and we have to eat all we catch. I’m sure the whales and fishing boats they’re used to following are much more productive than us. So we confuse them, but they continue to follow – hope springs eternal.

Schools of tuna are everywhere. They are voracious too. Frank sent a titalator off the back to tease them. It’s a giant lure he found on the beach in Mag Bay when Logan was a baby. He did not put a hook on it, we’re just towing it. we never actually used it for catching – I’m not sure we’d really want to land the monster that would be tempted by it. We keep it around more as a souvenir. Imprinted on it’s side in big iridescent letters is written, “EAT ME.” Apparently these tuna are literate (and they have no aesthetic taste); frequently throughout the day, the line goes taught from a wild strike. Hmmm, maybe they do have good taste, and are infuriated by it’s gaudiness. Lucky them, we’re done fishing for the day. The galley has been a packing house, Frank slaving away to vacuum pack, boil, cook, can, freeze and sauté all that we can. Fish soup and sashimi for dinner, tomorrow we’ll be making tuna pate, and sushi rolls. Wish we could share some with you, it’s delicious.

xoxomo

what about that blue? It’s so close to gray on this monochromatic day. -Frank-

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North of the Chatham Islands, New Zealand 10 April 2011 43S37 176W38

I think the Chathams is one of those places you could spend a few months – that way you’d increase your chances of getting a few days calm enough to go ashore. As it was, we had a quick visit ashore at the main town (yes where Frank’s unkempt week old watch attire, fish-blooded rubber boots and all, won him best dressed at the local pub – a rough and tumble bunch indeed). Then the very next day with winds expected to turn Waitagi into a lee shore, we sailed across the bay to Port Hutt (we did have time to catch up on sleep first). We only visited shore once at Port Hutt, it was a beautiful rugged windy place, and when the winds were down the rain was up. Ahh, autumn. It feels like birthday weather, next should be pumpkins, turkey, peppermint cappacinos with Marsh before work, and the scent of pine bows. But no – April fools – in this upside down world we’re headed back to the tropics. It’s way past time too.

So after 50-60 knot winds at anchor night before last, and a big SW swell that worked it’s way around our protective point and into our little bay, the weather has calmed, a high is nearby. We won’t be taking this opportunity to explore the Chathams by looking for fossilized sharks teeth, visiting the flower pot, or seeking out some life birds for Gary (Logan claims that if he, Kennan, and I all see the same new bird, it counts as if Gary had seen it…genetically speaking). Instead, we’re grasping a different opportunity, and jumping into this open weather window, fingers crossed that it will stay open for the next 2 weeks. If it closes? Close your eyes and hang on tight, we’re going through anyway. If you look on the map in a southwesterly direction you can see that nice white antarctic wind source. We won’t be turning around and heading into that anytime soon. Eastward ho. Maybe next year we’ll get a chance to do something other than school in the Chathams.

xoxomo

P.S. Gary have you ever seen the Buller’s Albatross (or Mollymawk) We just had 15 of them fighting over a fish-head off our stern, neat looking birds. Big, mean, colorful beaks, I’m glad I wasn’t between the fish-head and that pack. They have a slight indentation in their feathers that runs from the corner of their beak in a line under their eyes. It looks like the line where the elastic should run to keep a fake beak in place. They probably have some whimpy gull beak underneath. You can officially check him off your list, along with the dramatic black and white Cape Pigeon. There are lots of little blue penguins too, but I think you’ve seen those.

P.P.S. Frank just turned in for a nap, and informed me that we have 7 layers of blankets on our bed right now. Let’s see about 14 days ahead of us, but we won’t start removing any till we head north in about 5 days. I’ll let you know at what rate we get to peel them off, degrees of latitude per blanket. On my person, I only have four clothing layers below and 6 on top, plus hat, hoodie, foul weather hood, and headphones on the ears (every little bit counts). It’s almost tropical under all that – almost – there doesn’t seem to be a tropical solution for the fingers though; they just stay cold.

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1 April 2011 -43.933 -176.555 Here we are in the Chathams . Waitangi hotel/fishermen’s club Margo said :Frank you’re the best dressed man in the house! I hadn’t changed since my 4to8 watch , a week old beard and can’t remember my last shower. Seventeen years of marriage does improve a man! I felt quite at home in that bar, and certainly not so much out of place. Well few beers later, the kids cooked dinner, and we are doing great. Frank P.S. she is not going to like that post!

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Southeasst of the Chatham Islands, New Zealand 1 April 2011 44S54 178W15

We’re back in the western hemisphere. So I guess it’s not April Fool’s Day yet – or anymore (it was only April Fool’s for us for about an hour between midnight and 1 a.m. when we crossed the dateline). I think the Chatham Islands are administratively on New Zealand time…but we won’t be there till tomorrow morning. So, did we miss April 1 altogether?

So the wind did pick up – a lot – 20-30 knots most of the day. It did exactly what the weather report said it would and has moved from northeasterlies to southwesterlies and that Antarctic wind has a chill bite to it!

All’s well under these nice New Zealand made wool long johns. Only a couple more weeks to the tropics.

xoxomo

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West of Christchurch, New Zealand 30 March 201 43S59 174E23

When we left Wellington our Spanish neighbors watched us go in dismay. It was as stepping in a ring with a bull at the other end. The bull was cyclone BUNE (pronounced MBU-NAY in Figeon English). We kept an eye on it. The weather forecast predicted a southwest wind of fifteen knots. We got twenty from the E/NE. Therefore the high pressure ridge wasn’t between us and the bull – and we had set sail expecting the bull to charge ahead of us. The next fax projected the beast going between the north island and the Chathams right on our tail. We ran wee wee wee all the way to Akaroa (south of Christchurch). Before we turned into the bay, the night’s forecast showed the beast turning into a beef to the slaughterhouse heading E/SE. We followed and are now heading toward the Chathams. “It’s our second day close-hauled in a tweenty knot breeze” says Logan with his perfect kiwi accent. Margo loves the new dodger she says it’s like going to the carwash (the kind where you get to stay inside the car and watch the bubbles). Tomorrow we should be able to run-in towards the Chathams with a strong southwest breeze delivered fresh from Antarctica. It’s a good thing we bought wool underwear.

Loife is sweeet as bro!

Frank

P.S. Tonight we come back to the other side of the world. Tomorrow will be today, East to the West and still down under.

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West of Christchurch, New Zealand 30 March 201 43S59 174E23

Did I say we were going to Akaroa? Change of plans. Last night’s weather report had us tacking before midnight. We’re still under this high, headed west for the Chathams now. There’s a little more breeze this morning. Enough to put the little blue engine that could on a breakfast break. It looks like Bune will pass east and dissipate before we get there.

A little blue gray fairy prion just flew by the nav station portal. Neat pairs of cape petrels drop in now and then. I think the Albatross we’re seeing are mostly Royal Albatross (in varying plummage stages), some gray headed (looks like someone did the perfect gray airbrushing of their heads, and added a stern mascara look), and maybe some Chatham Island Albatross? They all come in close to SL, hoping to catch an extra lift from our sails. We’re looking at them thinking, “I wish I had a set of those wings” They’re looking a us thinking, “those billowy white things are “sweet as”.” (Kiwi for totally awesome.) I guess the ocean is always bluer on the other side. Frank says some frenchman returned from the southern ocean inspired by the albatross, sure that he should be able to glide like they do. He built a set of wings jumped and soared a fair distance, before he crashed to his death. I guess he forgot that the albatross usually soar over water. Actually, I don’t think he died instantly but soon after from injuries – probably long enough to think, “that was dumb, got to work on this landing thing.” I’d say he couldn’t look to the albatross for inspiration there. Lesson learned by the remaining humans on the planet; full fledged flight soon followed.

My walking Google can’t remember his name. Anyone?

xoxomo

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West of the South Island, New Zealand 29 March 2011 43.3865S 173.8349E

We’re out the gate, almost. I don’t think we’ve ever been this ready. Yesterday the customs official came down checked us out, gave us our certificate of departure, and took our picture as we left. The weather looked good for a 3 day crossing to the Chatham Islands, where we’d like to spend a few days before heading east back to French Polynesia. But last night’s weather report, shows a change in Cyclone Bune. To quote Bob McDavitt a local weather guru speaking of Bune and the other highs and lows in the area “they may waltz or they may tango, we will not really know until it happens” Bune was predicted to stall well northeast of the Chathams, then dissipate. Instead, it has sped up, and is wandering more west. So instead of heading south and east, we’re just heading south. Our plan is to sit this dance out (no one on board can Tango or Waltz) and tuck into Akaroa on the Bank’s Peninsula (close to Christchurch). We’ll anchor there for a day or two and let the low that kept us awake the night before we left, do it’s job to cool the hotheaded tropical beast – meanwhile we bask under this nice high that pushed that low west (and would have pushed us west too, if we weren’t such sissies). I won’t tempt Bune today by wishing for wind, the little blue engine that could chugs along – and burning a little diesel now, might help our waterline. We should be pulling in to Akarora around daybreak tomorrow, and it looks like we can make another attempt to break away in a day or two. from there it should be a straight shot east to the Chathams. And for those of you familiar with the weather patterns and characters here, Bob says the westerlies are moving north, so they should be primed to take us backwards around this big Pacific. We may be far enough south now to catch that westerly train. Any further south and it will be a fast chilly ride indeed, and we’ll be dreaming of the easterly trades.

All the little and big projects and fixes are working well. The new dodger is amazing. The new dorades seem to be helping keep H2O outside (mostly). The waterline is low with full tanks and larders (no we did not raise the line again when we painted this time). The fridges are working full time to keep a nice stock of fresh food fresh. We now have two windvanes mounted on the back, and we didn’t have to start the engine once in last night’s 20 knot winds. We have French visas in hand, taxes sent in, bills paid, hours of podcasts and volumes of ebooks loaded. We even cleaned and vacuumed before we left (although that doesn’t seem to be lasting long). A very fresh start at any rate. There are a few nigglies acting up,a new water pump, that won’t start, a small oil leak, from an engine too long quiet, and a perfectly decent new lee clothe at the settee looks like it will go unused – we all still prefer the cabin sole for sleeping underway. So an easy first day and a half, on this half start. And I’m mostly able to glance around the boat as we motor along and not have the constant list of things-to-fix popping into view – so many done! Our cruising kitty will love that we’ll be spending most of the rest of the year in less civilized country. This year’s goal, avoid islands with cash registers.

There is an amazing quantity and variety of Albatross out here, many just floating around waiting for better winds. They rarely bother to attempt flight as we motor by. We often pass close enough to see the flees on their backs – almost. They are huge, and beautiful (except for those take-offs and landings…not high on the execution points there)

I have to recommend to you all to add New Zealand to your vacation destination list. And if you manage it between November and March of next year, maybe we’ll catch up to you here.

xoxomo

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Nelson, New Zealand 12 March 2011 41.2603S 173.2810E

Hi all, We’ve been getting lots of “are you ok” inquiries, since I’ve been so silent recently. All is well aboard, we are still in Nelson at a marina waiting for the installation of a hard dodger (plywood and acrylic cover for the cockpit). We missed the Christchurch earthquake by a week, and the coming tsunami waves look like they’ll be about 15 cm (6 inches), and should be here In an hour or so (11:15 a.m. NZ time). We’ve been warned not to go swimming, or boating due to unusual currents, but they are not recommending that boats sail out to sea away from land. Luckily the tide will be relatively low, (one of the big concerns in marinas is that the docks rise above the pillars and then the docks and boats start playing bumper boats in the currents).

The silence is just landlife ruling our world right now. School in the morning, projects throughout the day, get togethers with friends in the evenings. We love Nelson, a gem of a town with amazing crafts and trades and wonderfully hospitable people, perfect place to get stuff done on the boat.We’ve also done a lot of exploring, first with my mom beginning of January around Nelson and Able Tasman, then with my dad and stepmom end of February around the whole South Island. Great trips, great sights, great to reconnect with family. I’ve posted too many pictures on http://picasaweb.google.com/margoreveil, those images are all I have to tell the tales of this landlife for now.

We’re planning on leaving Nelson for Wellington next week (dodger completion and weather permitting), then after a week or less in Wellington we’ll be looking for a weather window to take us away from all the dangers of land living to the nice predictable dangers of the sea. Our first destination will be the Chatham Islands (4-5 days east of New Zealand). We’re hoping to be there a week or so before 15-20 days of navigation Back to the Australes and on up to Tahiti. I should be back to more frequent updates then.

The devastation in Japan and Christchurch is heart-wrenching. For us these events reinforce our commitment to wringing the best out of this life now; tomorrow will always be unpredictable, today is somewhat easier to predict and control, this moment is a good time to turn to the nearest person at hand, figure out what’s special about them, and nourish that thought.

Missing all you very special people! And wishing you and your loved ones health, safety and happiness. xoxomo

P.S. You can now subscribe to the Ship’s Blog and the Scurvy Report by email (separate subscriptions required). Just visit the homepages below, and enter your email address. To complete the subscription process you will have to click on a link in an email that gets sent back to you after signing up. If you’re at all interested in adding comments to the blog, you need to comment at least once while I’m near land to accept your comment. Then your future comments should go up automatically — today’s a good day for me, the internet is blazing here now (not always the case!), go for it.

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